How can you go to Paris and not go to the Opera?
A few nights ago I did just that. Quite an experience.
Luckily La boheme was playing. Lucky, I say, because yours truly has not had much exposure to opera. In fact I believe I have been to only one opera performance in my life, and that had to be some 45 years ago.
If you have to be introduced to opera, many say that La boheme is one to go to first. A great opera for beginners. It is one of the most frequently performed operas in the world. It was originally performed in 1896 and has continued for the last 125 years. Other than Carmen, it is probably the most famous opera of all time.
The story is set in Paris around 1830. The French words La boheme translate to the bohemian lifestyle. The opera was composed by Giacomo Puccini around 1895 and focuses on a sympathetic portrayal of a poor seamstress (Mimi) and her artist friends, especially her romance with budding artist Rodolfo. It takes place presumably in the Latin Quarter of Paris. Since that time other neighborhoods have been the bohemian locus of activity in Paris. Montmartre, the neighborhood that I have been living in for the last two weeks, is an example of such a neighborhood.
Supertitle translations in French and English above the stage helped me and others to follow the Italian in which the opera was sung.
In addition, how fortunate can one person be? The night that I went to the opera the conductor was Gustavo Dudamel !!!!
World renowned, he has been the Music and Artistic Director for the Los Angeles Philharmonic for the last 14 years, and he has just been selected as the Music Director for the New York Philharmonic beginning in 2026. He is particularly known for his efforts to bring access to music and the arts to members of disadvantaged communities, especially youth. He has won numerous awards and has 65 albums in his discography.
Only 42 years of age, born in Venezuela and a world class violinist, he was appointed in 2021 the Music Director for the Paris Opera in addition to his other roles.
An interesting historical note, when La boheme was first performed in 1896 the conductor was none other than Arturo Toscanini.
The final surprise in the evening was the venue. The Paris Opera House is famous – one of the 10 most famous opera houses in the world.
The Palais Garnier is iconic and a Paris landmark, with its hall of mirrors and grandiose staircase. I assumed that when I made the reservation for La boheme that it would be performed at the historic Paris Opera House. Little did I know that the Paris Opera has three opera venues. The historic world famous one mentioned above, a smaller one Opera Comique, and one on Place de la Bastille, the site of an old train station next to the site of the infamous storming of the Bastille prison and its eventual destruction during the French Revolution.
Opera Bastille is a modern facility that was built to commemorate the bicentennial of the French Revolution in 1989. It is the largest opera house in the world, holding 2,745 patrons, compared to 1,979 in the historic Opera Garnier.
The modern venue for the Paris Opera is breathtaking in its own right. The acoustics are amazing. None of the opera singers used microphones, yet their voices traveled throughout the very large facility. It is now the preferred performance space for the Paris Opera, with the classic Opera Garnier building used more for ballet.
When you put together the opera La boheme with conductor Gustavo Dudamel in the Opera Bastille in Paris you get quite an evening.
This was not just another evening in Paris. It was quite something – even for a rookie in opera.
I hope you kept the program! I want to know who sang.
The Dude conducted Mahler’s 9th at the NY Phil this week – total sellout. Tix were going for $500. I didnt go.
Two you say, that’s about par for the course. My 2 were in Prague and Librice in the Bohemian area of Czech Republic 20 years back when I volunteered on an Acid Rain Recovery mission in what is referred to as the Black Triangle. The Charles University felt obligated to treat us Earthwatch slaves to a hody tody nite out!. Two were definitely my limit! To me, a Philistine Canadian and somewhat of a Luddite, the Opera houses were of more interest than the opera! They did not have closed captioning so maybe that’s an improvement. Bravo for you having sat through the entire performance.
I’ve been to see music or dance in over a dozen opera houses around the world — but only Two Operas. My 2 are:
— Carmen, performed with the musicians using rock instruments on stage at the Opera House in Lucca, Italy
— La Boheme, performed by an all black troupe, with Yvonne Burke at the Dorothy Chandler
Ps: Lucca was Puccini’s home town. There was a little bronze of him outside the entrance to the gem of an opera house…
Neil i venture to say you may have paid more for your fabulous opera tickets than your beauty creams, but in my book that was money well worth it! Lucky you!
As always, such an interesting and informative blog.
Bravo to you and lucky us for the opportunity to share your diverse experiences to the City of Lights!