Exactly 60 years ago I traveled to the Gaza Strip.
In 1963 I spent the summer in Egypt as a participant in Operation Crossroads Africa, which was the “progenitor of the Peace Corps” according to President John F. Kennedy. The idea was to improve understanding and future cooperation between America and Africa nations by having young Americans spend the summer working with their African peers, working together on projects with our hands.
Most everyone went to countries below the Sahara Desert except for my group. We went to Egypt, which, at the time, was quite something, since the United States had cut off all diplomatic relations with Egypt under the rule of President Gamal Abdul Nasser. During the summer we had the opportunity to go to many different parts of Egypt, and one such trip was across the Sinai desert to the Gaza Strip.
What is happening in the Gaza Strip right now is so wrenching from so many perspectives. The absolute horror of the Hamas attack, the ignition of war, the almost 20,000 deaths in the Gaza Strip, the humanitarian catastrophe in the Gaza Strip, the seeming hopelessness of an end game that will be at least a partial resolution for both sides.
I am not writing about this at this time to put my two cents into the ongoing debate. Rather, I am writing about this because I came across a handwritten letter that I sent to my very special grandmother on August 15, 1963 – 60 years ago.
Given everything that is happening right now in the Gaza Strip, I thought I would share what my observations were some 60 years ago when I was in the Gaza Strip.
Dear Gram,
I really appreciate your letters very much. They are so encouraging, and it is a real pleasure to know that somebody is trying to learn about the Middle East. I’m afraid when I get home, it will be like talking to a stone wall when I talk to Mom and Dad, for they don’t know anything about Egypt and the Middle East I’m afraid. This is a very sad thing for this part of the world is really moving. The newspaper coverage of the Arab world and Egypt is very poor and inadequate in America. The biggest distortion that the American press makes concerns the Israeli problem. The American public is ignorant of the Arab and Palestinian side of the problem.
We went to the Gaza Strip last week for a three day stay. This was a most enlightening experience – holy cow! We saw the refugee camps, which are bad, but not as an American imagines them. They have western clothes thanks to CARE and UNRWA (UN Relief and Works Administration). They have better living conditions – that is, clothes, clean houses – than some of the villages in Egypt. However, the situation should not be put in the back of your mind because of these superficial conditions. The emotional fact still remains – that is, they can look from their camp over the valley to their homes before 1948. They can see their homes; their fields being tilled by Israelites. Their emotions and fervor are unimaginable on this point. You can only get it by actually going to the area and talking with the Palestinians who have been ousted from their own land.
They hate the Americans because we are giving arms to Israel, plus the fact that we are supporting the Israeli economy. If we withdrew our aid, the Israeli economy would collapse. Of course, a large part of this aid is by private Zionist groups in America and especially New York City. They hate the UNEF (UN Emergency Force) that is patrolling the border between Gaza and Israel. The reason – the UNEF is keeping them from getting their homes back. the fact that UNRWA is 70% supported by US contributions doesn’t make much difference to the Palestinians. They think we owe them this.
I hope this will give you some idea of what is going on over there. one last point – believe me, there is no peaceful solution to this problem. I will guarantee war in the next 10 years. Pretty dismal, eh?
Love, Neil
P.S. the world needs more understanding people like you. Your letters are the best I get from anybody. Thanks.
P.P.S. I am writing this in darkness – no lights here, no shower either. So I hope you can read it.
I have reread my letter to my grandmother probably 20 times. Frankly, every time I read it I experience emotion bubbling up inside of me. My eyes well up. A tear drop or two finds its way down my cheeks. Emotion because…
One, the absolute tragedy of the seemingly intractable situation between Israel and the Palestinian people.
Two, the empathy that I have for the plight of the people living in Gaza.
Three, how wonderful my grandmother was. I could talk about anything with her. She was so caring, so curious, so engaged. Still, to this day, when I am faced with a decision that involves morals or values, I think to myself about what my grandmother would have advised me. I loved her so much.
Gram was a very special woman – I remember her so well though only meeting. her a few times. Your bond and relationship was clearly very special. The prescient nature of your observations – how much things have stayed the same or just gotten worse – is very depressing but this glimpse of the past roots of current horrors is so important to have.
Great job, Neil, thanks for posting
Having spent 9 days in Israel in 1982 I concur with your 1963 observations. Too bad Hamas did not expend all that time and money digging all those tunnels instead of providing goods and services to their Palestinian people.. They must have known that their brutal attack on 7OCT might trigger wrath upon their people and by hiding munitions under schools and hospitals they risked collateral damage to their people. This could all stop if they surrendered the hostages. So sad!
Worthy time-machine stuff, Neil. Terrific! (Wish I’d known your Gram.). I’ve been to Israel twice. Admirable in many ways. Living for decades, half or more of my friends/colleagues were/are Jewish. But I also had a Palestinian secretary and got to know her family and a bit of their story. This is, of course, also the stuff of tragedy, with only perhaps a two-state solution.as historic resolution. But…. always but…..
Thank you for posting. So tragic. So difficult to find hope.
What a wonderful prospective on history of 60 years ago. Your love of your grandmother and her love and understand for your needs.
Fascinating perspective from 60 years ago. Glad you found that letter. It confirms that this has been ongoing since the 1948 boundary lines were drawn.
Karen